Belay Device Buying Guide

Introduction

Whether you are at an indoor wall or outdoor crag, a belay device will be an essential part of your climbing kit.

You use one to control your rope while belaying or abseiling. One of its most important functions is to stop the rope in the event of a fall.

Tubular Belay Devices

Easy to use, these popular belay devices are suitable for all types of climbing.

Assisted Braking Belay Devices

Assisted Braking Belay Devices (ABDs)

As the name suggests, devices in this category assist with braking, helping to increase safety when belaying. They are also referred to as self-braking, self-locking, auto-locking or auto-blocking devices. There are two types of assisted braking devices: active and passive. The difference lies in whether the device has any moving parts.

Active Assisted Braking Belay Devices

Active ABDs feature an auto-locking mechanism, such as an internal cam. When a sudden force is applied (e.g., when a climber falls), the device locks down on the rope. This helps the belayer to catch and hold the fall. When used in the correct way, they give an enhanced level of safety to your climbing system. A favourite for sport climbing, Active ABDs make holding the climber after a fall or as they rest on-route far easier. Clamping down on the rope, they take pressure off the belayer’s braking hand, helping to reduce fatigue. This is not an opportunity for the belayer to rest hands-free! They should always maintain a grip on the rope. While offering increased security, there are some drawbacks to these devices. To start, most will only work with a single rope. They have a limited rope diameter range and struggle to grip icy or frozen ropes. Heavier and bulkier due to the more complex designs, these models also tend to be the most expensive.

Passive Assisted Braking Belay Devices

Unlike their Active counterparts, Passive ABDs have no moving parts. Instead, they work by pinching the rope between the device and a carabiner. Enhancing the braking action, it increases security while belaying. Without an internal camming mechanism, Passive ABDs are lighter and more compact. Models in this category include single- and double rope-compatible options. A popular choice for sport routes, the latter are also suitable for trad climbing and abseiling. Although offering extra safety, assisted braking devices can take a bit of time to get used to. They all have slight differences in how they work, so switching between models is not as easy as it is with tubular devices.

Figure Eight Belay Devices

A Figure Eight device is most used for abseiling, caving, and search and rescue scenarios.

Easy to thread even with gloves on, it is compatible with a wide range of rope diameters. The bulkier design also efficiently dissipates the heat caused by friction when descending.

Although offering a smooth descent, the lack of friction makes a Figure Eight harder to control when belaying. It needs increased attention and strength from the belayer's hand compared to other belay devices. It also puts a twist in the rope, which can make handling more difficult.

What to Consider

Before making a final decision on the right belay device for you, there are a number of additional considerations to be made.

Carabiner Compatibility

Belay Sets

Rope Compatibility

Weight Differences

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