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Climbing Ropes Buying Guide
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Belay Device Buying Guide
Buying Guide
Introduction
Whether you are at an indoor wall or outdoor crag, a belay device will be an essential part of your climbing kit.
You use one to control your rope while belaying or abseiling. One of its most important functions is to stop the rope in the event of a fall.
Tubular Belay Devices
Easy to use, these popular belay devices are suitable for all types of climbing.
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Assisted Braking Belay Devices
Assisted Braking Belay Devices (ABDs)
As the name suggests, devices in this category assist with braking, helping to increase safety when belaying. They are also referred to as self-braking, self-locking, auto-locking or auto-blocking devices. There are two types of assisted braking devices: active and passive. The difference lies in whether the device has any moving parts.
Figure Eight Belay Devices
A Figure Eight device is most used for abseiling, caving, and search and rescue scenarios.
Easy to thread even with gloves on, it is compatible with a wide range of rope diameters. The bulkier design also efficiently dissipates the heat caused by friction when descending.
Although offering a smooth descent, the lack of friction makes a Figure Eight harder to control when belaying. It needs increased attention and strength from the belayer's hand compared to other belay devices. It also puts a twist in the rope, which can make handling more difficult.
What to Consider
Before making a final decision on the right belay device for you, there are a number of additional considerations to be made.
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