two people walking down snowy hill wearing crampons

Crampons Buying Guide

Introduction

Anatomy

Crampon Ratings & Mountaineering Boot Ratings Explained

Crampon ratings

Mountaineering boot ratings

More Guides

Crampons Buying Guide

Introduction

Crampons are metal devices which fit to the soles of mountaineering boots. Their toothed design helps to secure traction on ice and hard-packed snow. Mountaineers and ice climbers wear crampons when heading above the snowline.

This guide takes you through the different elements to consider when choosing crampons. Crampons need to be compatible with your boots to work correctly.

Anatomy

Anatomy of a crampon

There are several main components to a crampon. Their composition and design affect their performance and how you should use them. So, it's important to understand what each part does.

The main components are:

Base

Points (teeth)
Flex bar
Anti-balling plates

Binding system

Front cage or bail
Heel clip
Tether (binding straps)

Crampon Points

A crampon's points are the spiked teeth that bite into the snow and ice. They are situated at the contact areas beneath the forefoot and heel. Most crampon points are steel or stainless steel due to its strength. Some lightweight styles use aluminium for less aggressive use like ski touring.

Number of Points

The number of points affects the variety of positions in which a crampon can find traction. Crampons for activities involving gentle gradients like ski touring will usually have 10 points. Those designed for more technical mountaineering will have 12 points. And those designed for technical ice climbing will often have 14. Almost all designs will have four points beneath the heel and the rest beneath the forefoot.

Horizontal Points

Horizontal points look and act like a shark's front teeth. They provide excellent grip on snow and softer ice. This makes them a great choice for winter walking and moderate ice routes. But, they are not suited to technical ice climbing.

Vertical Points

Vertical crampon points work like an ice axe. They drive hard straight into the ice and give a secure hold on mixed and more aggressive routes. They are the right choice for those looking for technical ice climbing crampons. But they need a greater level of precision and give less stability on flatter sections. This makes them unsuitable for gentler winter walking routes. Vertical points go with the grain of the ice, meaning there is less chance of the ice shattering or 'blowing'. The construction of vertical points also means that front points are easily replaced.

Hybrid Points

Recent years have seen brands creating crampons with hybrid or 'T'-profiled points. This results in a versatile system. These are a vertical point with a horizontal profile at the top. Models like the Petzl Sarken offer the stability of horizontal points and the bite of vertical when routes become more demanding.

Monopoint Crampons

Monopoint crampons feature a central point at the front of the crampon. This gives them the precision required by ice climbers, and are the go-to for scaling mixed routes. A single point means you can pivot your foot without blowing your hold. This gives you more agility. It also gives the ability to jam into fluted ice and fissures with pinpoint accuracy.

Dual Point Crampons

Dual points are the most popular crampon for everything except technical ice climbing. They feature a pair of points at the front, giving optimal traction and stability.

Modular Points

Many high-level crampons feature a modular point system. This allows you to change between a dual and monopoint system easily with minimal tools. These make an excellent choice for routes that involve winter walking and ice climbing.

Crampon Ratings & Mountaineering Boot Ratings Explained

Crampon Ratings

Crampons consist of two distinct sections - the spiked base and the binding. The C rating relates directly to the binding rather than the 'spikes'. It is an indication of what boot a crampon binding will fit. This is regardless of the crampon's spike configuration.

This means you need to consider two types of compatibility:

· Will the crampon be compatible with your mountaineering aspirations?

· Will the binding be compatible with your boots?

Get the right answer to these two questions, and you will have the perfect crampon for you and your boots.

Often a particular type of 'base' is available with a variety of different binding systems. For instance, the Grivel G12 is available with either a New Matic (C2) or Cramp-o-Matic (C3) binding.

Crampon ratings

C1 Crampons

C2 Crampons

C3 Crampons

Mountaineering Boot Ratings

B ratings show if a boot is suitable for different winter terrains. They rank from B0 (not for use with crampons) to B3. Take a look at our mountaineering boots buying guide for more information.

Mountaineering boot ratings

B0 Boots

B1 Boots

B2 Boots

B3 Boots

Caring for crampons

More Guides

How to Use Crampons

Crampons are an essential piece of winter walking kit if you're out on the hills and looking to go above the snow line.

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Beginner's Guide to Ice Climbing

This guide to ice climbing highlights key aspects that you should consider before tackling the intense conditions found in winter climbing.